Pro Surfer Cheats Death, Wipes Out Trying to Ride Massive 40-Foot Wave

A pro surfer in Maui is caught on video free falling down a 40-foot wave.

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Surfing looks like a lot of fun provided you can stay on your board and not get thrown by a huge wave, and also not get eaten by a shark. Unfortunately all three of those are problems that can arise from time to time, with even the world's best having to deal with the unforgiving wrath of the ocean. Above is one such example as pro surfer Tom Dosland took on a Hawaiian wave the size of Godzilla's dick, which is how big a number of waves have gotten around America's 50th state this year due to El Nino. 

Afterward Dosland talked to Surfer Magazine and compared his experience to "being in a car crash" and also told the publication that he was blinded right before he fell due to the overwhelming "spray" blown into his eyes by the wind. Dosland's ordeal was brought about by his thirst for adrenaline rushes, saying:

"It looked like a sea monster rising out of the ocean when it came my way. But I was going. No matter what. So I flipped around and started paddling to get into it."

We concede that the video was shot from far away, which is probably why the video exists. Because of that you may not appreciate the graphic violence of it all. But Dosland gave the details on what exactly happened once his feet and board lost contact:

"I was free-falling for a while. It felt like I jumped off a cliff. That's when my leash stretched out all the way and flipped me over head-first. From there, I hit the face and it was just a brutal beating, like I was in a car crash."

He was back out there the next day.

[via KTLA]

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